The Sweet Spot

Dialing Back Sugar and Amping Up Flavor: A Cookbook

The former White House pastry chef for Presidents George W. Bush and Barack Obama presents a healthy, delicious collection of dessert recipes. 
 
Treat sugar like salt. This is the mantra of Bill Yosses, a former White House pastry chef, and his secret to baking indulgent yet wholesome desserts that truly satisfy. After being tasked by First Lady Michelle Obama to create healthier treats for her family, he discovered that when he dialed back the sugar in his recipes, his desserts were not only healthier on paper, but they actually tasted better too. In The Sweet Spot, Bill upends the notion of “healthy” desserts and shares an inspiring collection of delectable sweets that reveal the magic that happens when you bake with less sugar.  By using it as a flavor enhancer, you can showcase the natural sweetness and unique flavors of your other ingredients, and when you incorporate better, more flavorful add-ins like nut flours, essential oils, herbs, and spices, you’ll be satisfied even if there’s a smaller portion on your plate. From Kabocha Persimmon Pie and Matcha Green Tea Roll with Blackberry Pastry Cream, to Lemon Kaffir Semifreddo and Popped Quinoa Chocolate Cookies, Bill’s treats show us that desserts don’t have to be a source of penance to be exquisite and indulgent. Complete with a professional baker’s tricks of the trade to ensure your confections are as gorgeous as they are delicious, The Sweet Spot is a must-have for anyone looking to up their dessert game. Once you start baking Bill’s way, you’ll be able to have your cake…and eat it too!
FRUIT CRISPS WITH NUT TOPPINGS
MAKES ENOUGH NUT TOPPING FOR TWELVE 5-OUNCE RAMEKINS OR TWO 9-INCH CRISPS, MAKES ENOUGH FILLING FOR SIX 5-OUNCE RAMEKINS OR ONE 9-INCH CRISP
 
Ingredients:
 
FOR THE NUT TOPPING
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted high-fat European-style butter, at room temperature
3⁄4 cup muscovado or light brown sugar
2 drops food-grade essential oil (fir balsam, bergamot, bitter orange, lavender, or rose; optional)
1 1⁄2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1⁄2 cup old-fashioned rolled oats
1 cup coarsely chopped nuts
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme
 
FOR THE FILLING
1⁄3 cup organic cane sugar
3 tablespoons black chia seeds
1⁄2 teaspoon cinnamon
1⁄4 teaspoon ground cardamom Pinch of kosher salt
21⁄2 pounds fresh fruit, pitted and/or peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces, if applicable
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons drinking vinegar
Maple Whipped Cream (see below), for serving
 
Directions:
1 | Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment.

2 | Make the topping. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix together the butter and sugar on medium-high speed until smooth, about 3 minutes. Add the essential oil and mix to incorporate. Reduce the speed to low, add half the flour, and mix until incorporated, then add the remaining flour and mix until combined. Add the oats, nuts, and thyme and mix until just combined. Do not overmix. The mixture will resemble chunky paste. Spread in thin layers on the prepared baking sheets and bake until golden, about 15 minutes. Let cool, then break into marble-size pieces.

3 | Make the filling. In a small bowl, whisk together the sugar, chia seeds, cinnamon, cardamom, and salt. In a separate medium bowl, combine the fruit, lemon zest and juice, and drinking vinegar, if using (see Topping combinations below) and toss. Add the dry mixture to the fruit mixture and toss together with your hands until the fruit is coated all over. Spoon the fruit into 6 individual ramekins or into a 9-inch oven-safe dish. Press the fruit down to make room for the topping, if necessary. Divide the crumble evenly over the fruit. Bake until the fruit bubbles, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool for 30 minutes. Serve with the Maple Whipped Cream.
 
 
MAPLE WHIPPED CREAM
 
Ingredients:
½ cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons granulated maple sugar
 
Directions:
1 | Place the bowl and whisk attachment of a standing mixer in the refrigerator for 10 minutes.

2 | Return the bowl and whisk to the mixer and pour the cream into the bowl. Whisk on medium-high speed until soft peaks form and the tines of the whisk begin to show in the cream. Add the sugar and whisk for 30 seconds more. Remove the bowl from the mixer, and using a hand whisk, finish whisking to stiff peaks. The whipped cream will keep in the refrigerator, tightly covered, overnight. Whisk before serving.
 
TOPPING COMBINATIONS
For the adventuresome, I have included some optional vinegar and essential oil combos. You don’t need to use them, but we don’t need symphonies or Broadway musicals either—and they sure are nice.
 
CHERRY PECAN
(with 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar and 2 drops food-grade rose essential oil)
 
PLUM ALMOND
(with 1 tablespoon cherry vinegar and 2 drops food-grade petit grain essential oil)
 
APPLE HAZELNUT
(with 1 tablespoon verjus and 2 drops food-grade sweet wild orange essential oil)
 
HUCKLEBERRY WALNUT
(with 2 drops food-grade bergamot essential oil)
 
PEACH CASHEW
(with 1 tablespoon tamarind vinegar and 2 drops food-grade bergamot essential oil)
 
FIG WALNUT
(with 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar and cinnamon)
 
PLUM-NECTARINE MACADAMIA NUT
(with shredded unsweetened coconut)
"It’s a testament to [Yosses's] skill and ingenuity that he’s able to pull off such low-sugar feats that don’t lack a thing in terms of sweet satisfaction."
The New York Times

"There’s so much to love in Bill Yosses’ new book!  Of course there’s the fact that each recipe uses less sugar than most, but that, while the point, is almost beside it.  You’ll bake your way through this book for the wide range of recipes, Yosses’ fascinating takes on them, the interesting ingredients he uses and the sophisticated way he combines flavors and textures.  And you’ll read it for his stories and learn from his notes." 
—Dorie Greenspan, James Beard Award winning author of Dorie’s Cookies

"I love the ideas and techniques as well as the recipes in this new book! Bill relies on the inherent sweetness and flavor of quality ingredients—not to mention his considerable pastry skills—to revise and re-imagine desserts with loads less processed sugar. There’s no preaching here, just a smart and delicious use of flavorful non-wheat flours, whole grains, nut, herbs, vinegars, and essential oils to enhance flavors—even chia seeds to thicken fruit filling for pies and tarts. The curious cook will find brilliant but approachable new recipes and techniques.”
 
—Alice Medrich, James Beard Award winning author of Gluten Free Flavor Flours 


“For as long as I have known Bill Yosses, I have enjoyed his creativity and trusted his taste in pastry. In The Sweet Spot, he sets an ambitious goal: to replace bakers’ reliance on sugar with an emphasis on high-quality seasonal ingredients. In turn, his desserts defy our traditional expectations of ‘sweets’; they are vibrant, healthy and offer uniquely clean flavors.”
—Daniel Boulud, Chef/Owner DANIEL, New York City  www.danielboulud.com

"Pastry guru Bill Yosses wows dessert-lovers with a collection of pies, tarts, cookies, cakes that go easy on sugar, but keep flavor first and foremost. These pioneering pastries are sure to hit everyone's sweet spot. I'm looking forward to baking my way through this revolutionary book!"
—David Lebovitz, author of My Paris Kitchen and The Perfect Scoop

"A thoughtful, inspiring title to bake through the seasons."
Publishers Weekly, Starred Review
© Michael Lionstar
Peter Kaminsky wrote Underground Gourmet for New York magazine for four years, and his Outdoors column appeared in The New York Times for twenty years. He is a longtime contributor to Food & Wine and the former managing editor of National Lampoon. His books include Pig Perfect: Encounters with Remarkable Swine, The Moon Pulled Up an Acre of Bass, The Elements of Taste (with Gray Kunz), Seven Fires: Grilling the Argentine Way (with Francis Mallmann), Letters to a Young Chef (with Daniel Boulud), Celebrate! (with Sheila Lukins), andJohn Madden’s Ultimate Tailgating. He is a creator and executive producer of the Kennedy Center Mark Twain Prize for American Humor and the Library of Congress Gershwin Prize for Popular Song on PBS. View titles by Peter Kaminsky

About

The former White House pastry chef for Presidents George W. Bush and Barack Obama presents a healthy, delicious collection of dessert recipes. 
 
Treat sugar like salt. This is the mantra of Bill Yosses, a former White House pastry chef, and his secret to baking indulgent yet wholesome desserts that truly satisfy. After being tasked by First Lady Michelle Obama to create healthier treats for her family, he discovered that when he dialed back the sugar in his recipes, his desserts were not only healthier on paper, but they actually tasted better too. In The Sweet Spot, Bill upends the notion of “healthy” desserts and shares an inspiring collection of delectable sweets that reveal the magic that happens when you bake with less sugar.  By using it as a flavor enhancer, you can showcase the natural sweetness and unique flavors of your other ingredients, and when you incorporate better, more flavorful add-ins like nut flours, essential oils, herbs, and spices, you’ll be satisfied even if there’s a smaller portion on your plate. From Kabocha Persimmon Pie and Matcha Green Tea Roll with Blackberry Pastry Cream, to Lemon Kaffir Semifreddo and Popped Quinoa Chocolate Cookies, Bill’s treats show us that desserts don’t have to be a source of penance to be exquisite and indulgent. Complete with a professional baker’s tricks of the trade to ensure your confections are as gorgeous as they are delicious, The Sweet Spot is a must-have for anyone looking to up their dessert game. Once you start baking Bill’s way, you’ll be able to have your cake…and eat it too!

Excerpt

FRUIT CRISPS WITH NUT TOPPINGS
MAKES ENOUGH NUT TOPPING FOR TWELVE 5-OUNCE RAMEKINS OR TWO 9-INCH CRISPS, MAKES ENOUGH FILLING FOR SIX 5-OUNCE RAMEKINS OR ONE 9-INCH CRISP
 
Ingredients:
 
FOR THE NUT TOPPING
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted high-fat European-style butter, at room temperature
3⁄4 cup muscovado or light brown sugar
2 drops food-grade essential oil (fir balsam, bergamot, bitter orange, lavender, or rose; optional)
1 1⁄2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1⁄2 cup old-fashioned rolled oats
1 cup coarsely chopped nuts
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme
 
FOR THE FILLING
1⁄3 cup organic cane sugar
3 tablespoons black chia seeds
1⁄2 teaspoon cinnamon
1⁄4 teaspoon ground cardamom Pinch of kosher salt
21⁄2 pounds fresh fruit, pitted and/or peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces, if applicable
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons drinking vinegar
Maple Whipped Cream (see below), for serving
 
Directions:
1 | Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment.

2 | Make the topping. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix together the butter and sugar on medium-high speed until smooth, about 3 minutes. Add the essential oil and mix to incorporate. Reduce the speed to low, add half the flour, and mix until incorporated, then add the remaining flour and mix until combined. Add the oats, nuts, and thyme and mix until just combined. Do not overmix. The mixture will resemble chunky paste. Spread in thin layers on the prepared baking sheets and bake until golden, about 15 minutes. Let cool, then break into marble-size pieces.

3 | Make the filling. In a small bowl, whisk together the sugar, chia seeds, cinnamon, cardamom, and salt. In a separate medium bowl, combine the fruit, lemon zest and juice, and drinking vinegar, if using (see Topping combinations below) and toss. Add the dry mixture to the fruit mixture and toss together with your hands until the fruit is coated all over. Spoon the fruit into 6 individual ramekins or into a 9-inch oven-safe dish. Press the fruit down to make room for the topping, if necessary. Divide the crumble evenly over the fruit. Bake until the fruit bubbles, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool for 30 minutes. Serve with the Maple Whipped Cream.
 
 
MAPLE WHIPPED CREAM
 
Ingredients:
½ cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons granulated maple sugar
 
Directions:
1 | Place the bowl and whisk attachment of a standing mixer in the refrigerator for 10 minutes.

2 | Return the bowl and whisk to the mixer and pour the cream into the bowl. Whisk on medium-high speed until soft peaks form and the tines of the whisk begin to show in the cream. Add the sugar and whisk for 30 seconds more. Remove the bowl from the mixer, and using a hand whisk, finish whisking to stiff peaks. The whipped cream will keep in the refrigerator, tightly covered, overnight. Whisk before serving.
 
TOPPING COMBINATIONS
For the adventuresome, I have included some optional vinegar and essential oil combos. You don’t need to use them, but we don’t need symphonies or Broadway musicals either—and they sure are nice.
 
CHERRY PECAN
(with 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar and 2 drops food-grade rose essential oil)
 
PLUM ALMOND
(with 1 tablespoon cherry vinegar and 2 drops food-grade petit grain essential oil)
 
APPLE HAZELNUT
(with 1 tablespoon verjus and 2 drops food-grade sweet wild orange essential oil)
 
HUCKLEBERRY WALNUT
(with 2 drops food-grade bergamot essential oil)
 
PEACH CASHEW
(with 1 tablespoon tamarind vinegar and 2 drops food-grade bergamot essential oil)
 
FIG WALNUT
(with 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar and cinnamon)
 
PLUM-NECTARINE MACADAMIA NUT
(with shredded unsweetened coconut)

Reviews

"It’s a testament to [Yosses's] skill and ingenuity that he’s able to pull off such low-sugar feats that don’t lack a thing in terms of sweet satisfaction."
The New York Times

"There’s so much to love in Bill Yosses’ new book!  Of course there’s the fact that each recipe uses less sugar than most, but that, while the point, is almost beside it.  You’ll bake your way through this book for the wide range of recipes, Yosses’ fascinating takes on them, the interesting ingredients he uses and the sophisticated way he combines flavors and textures.  And you’ll read it for his stories and learn from his notes." 
—Dorie Greenspan, James Beard Award winning author of Dorie’s Cookies

"I love the ideas and techniques as well as the recipes in this new book! Bill relies on the inherent sweetness and flavor of quality ingredients—not to mention his considerable pastry skills—to revise and re-imagine desserts with loads less processed sugar. There’s no preaching here, just a smart and delicious use of flavorful non-wheat flours, whole grains, nut, herbs, vinegars, and essential oils to enhance flavors—even chia seeds to thicken fruit filling for pies and tarts. The curious cook will find brilliant but approachable new recipes and techniques.”
 
—Alice Medrich, James Beard Award winning author of Gluten Free Flavor Flours 


“For as long as I have known Bill Yosses, I have enjoyed his creativity and trusted his taste in pastry. In The Sweet Spot, he sets an ambitious goal: to replace bakers’ reliance on sugar with an emphasis on high-quality seasonal ingredients. In turn, his desserts defy our traditional expectations of ‘sweets’; they are vibrant, healthy and offer uniquely clean flavors.”
—Daniel Boulud, Chef/Owner DANIEL, New York City  www.danielboulud.com

"Pastry guru Bill Yosses wows dessert-lovers with a collection of pies, tarts, cookies, cakes that go easy on sugar, but keep flavor first and foremost. These pioneering pastries are sure to hit everyone's sweet spot. I'm looking forward to baking my way through this revolutionary book!"
—David Lebovitz, author of My Paris Kitchen and The Perfect Scoop

"A thoughtful, inspiring title to bake through the seasons."
Publishers Weekly, Starred Review

Author

© Michael Lionstar
Peter Kaminsky wrote Underground Gourmet for New York magazine for four years, and his Outdoors column appeared in The New York Times for twenty years. He is a longtime contributor to Food & Wine and the former managing editor of National Lampoon. His books include Pig Perfect: Encounters with Remarkable Swine, The Moon Pulled Up an Acre of Bass, The Elements of Taste (with Gray Kunz), Seven Fires: Grilling the Argentine Way (with Francis Mallmann), Letters to a Young Chef (with Daniel Boulud), Celebrate! (with Sheila Lukins), andJohn Madden’s Ultimate Tailgating. He is a creator and executive producer of the Kennedy Center Mark Twain Prize for American Humor and the Library of Congress Gershwin Prize for Popular Song on PBS. View titles by Peter Kaminsky